Chefs of the Inland Northwest: Q&A with Dan Koommoo
Chefs of the Inland Northwest: Q&A with Dan Koommoo
Co-owner and Chef, Crafted Yakima
BY HANA-LEE SEDGWICK
IMAGES BY VICTORIA WRIGHT
James Beard-nominated chef Dan Koommoo, originally from Thailand, and his wife, Mollie, are the creative forces behind Crafted, their lively farm-to-table restaurant in downtown Yakima. Since opening in 2017, Crafted has become known for its ever-evolving menu of shareable plates along with seasonally-driven cocktails and regional wine and beer. With a passion for showcasing the bounty of the region, the Koommoos source the majority of their ingredients from farmers, foragers and purveyors within a 100-mile radius, ensuring every dish celebrates the vibrant flavors of the Northwest.
To better understand what fuels Chef Dan's passion as a chef and restaurateur, I sat down with him to discuss life in the kitchen and the importance of community to both him and Mollie, who leads the front of house and beverage program at Crafted.
It’s great to connect with you. I understand you and Mollie met while working at a winery in Woodinville, Washington. What led you two to open your own restaurant?
Mollie and I took a job together on Orcas Island, and once we got married, we realized we wanted to be closer to family and open our own restaurant. We had the opportunity in Yakima, where Mollie’s family relocated when she was in college.
If you can put it into words, what would you say is your cooking philosophy?
“Don’t overthink it.” I like to keep real foods real but play with different combinations along the way.
What’s a memorable culinary experience that has significantly influenced your cooking style or philosophy?
Living on Orcas Island, where everything from seafood to local produce was within an arm's reach, opened my eyes to the fact that we can order any ingredient at any time from anywhere, but should we be when it’s right here?
That’s such an important way of thinking. I know your menu at Crafted relies heavily on what’s grown on local farms. Do you have a go-to farm/purveyor in the region you always source from?
We use as many as we can! Laura McIlrath from McIlrath Family Farms is a liaison between us and a lot of the smaller farms a little bit further out, making it easier for products to get to us.
If you’d have to pick one, which ingredient has inspired you the most in the kitchen?
Tough question. Maybe dried chilis? Their utility is pretty endless…
Your menu changes frequently, but is there a certain dish that you’d say is a fan favorite or one that customers request to return again?
The crispy rice dish we’ve had on the menu before seems to be the fan favorite. It’s a great off-season dish with Asian ingredients, herbs and sausage. For fun we put on the menu a s’mores dessert years ago, and it hasn’t come off since. It’s got housemade marshmallows, graham cracker ice cream, chocolate logs to look like a campfire; then it's smoked under a cloche.
Both sound delicious! Crafted features an à la carte menu, but you also offer a “hands free” Chef’s menu. What’s your favorite thing about creating this seven-course experience?
It is a reflection of not just me but our entire team.
What’s a culinary trend you’re excited about right now, if any?
There seems to be a resurgence of Asian influence in many different cuisines right now which is refreshing to see.
For sure. What is one kitchen “tool” you can’t live without?
I couldn’t get through a day without my multi-tool in my pocket… or a good set of fish pliers (a very underrated kitchen tool).
Is there a dish from another regional restaurant you can’t get enough of? Or a restaurant you find yourself visiting often?
Staple & Fancy is our go-to in Ballard when we are on the west side, or any Ethan Stowell restaurant, really — similar concepts and always hit the spot! When we are here in Yakima we are pretty avid pho eaters. My Ma Dim Sum is our go-to.
When it’s your day off, what’s one of your favorite things to make at home in the fall/winter season?
Larb or Pad Kra Pao — any minced meat on rice and I’m happy.
Can’t go wrong with that. Do you have any tips or advice for the home chef looking to better their skills?
Don’t learn off TikTok — haha! There are far more qualified chefs and resources, such as through blogs and masterclasses, that will happily guide you on your path to being a better home cook.
What is it about Yakima and the community that inspires you and Mollie as chefs and restaurant owners?
Our community of supporters show up again and again. We see some of the same guests every single weekend, which inspires us to change our menu even more than we already do. We want to put new items in front of supporting faces that share our same passions.
22 N. First St., Yakima, Washington
